WALKS WITH NELLY ~ BY SALLY MOSLEY ~ EYAM

As you all know, I love a bit of history and there is no better place to enjoy some snippets than Eyam and its surroundings. The village is jam-packed with interest of all kinds and so I headed to the ‘top layer’ free car park off Hawkhill Road. My planned route was to incorporate a stroll through Stoney Middleton where I had timed it right for a much unexpected special treat.

Nellie and I set off along the path through the playing fields to the enjoyable sounds of children young and old having fun. At the rear of the churchyard we turned left and headed up a steep path through narrow field gates and stiles before walking roadside in the shade of majestic and mature trees on a pilgrimage to Mompesson’s Well which is actually water captured from a stream as opposed to deep underground. During the 17th century plaque years, residents of Eyam left coins in the water as payment and in the hope that they would be cured. The ‘wishing well’ idea of giving gifts to the water is reputed to date back thousands of years.

Retracing our steps a short distance to just beyond the junction we then descended through woodland on a topsy turvy path to emerge onto New Road where we turned left.

I have often wondered why this Eyam to Grindleford road has been closed for many years but have never walked along it in the past to find out. Signs advise walkers, cyclists and horse riders to ‘Share With Care’ and it soon became apparent that there are several areas of severe subsidence where the unstable hillside has dropped away. A lovely walk all the same!

After passing the fabulous Manor House we came to a sharp bend in the road to enjoy fantastic far reaching views across to the string of Edges that line the eastern flank of the River Derwent. Here we turned right to descend a wonderful hollowed away track beneath towering beech trees, with me carefully placing each step on the rough and rugged stone strewn surface. This brought us down to The Nook where the Roman Baths are located and I came across a surprise. Here was a magical well dressing of swallows in flight, its colourful image reflected in the stream below. A little further on was the main well dressing, this year’s theme being in memory and tribute to Ethel Haythornthwaite. She was an environmentalist, activist, campaigner and poet who was involved with establishing the Peak District National Park. Designed by local artist Si Homfray, it was stunning beyond words.

After passing Stoney Middleton’s quirky and unique Church dedicated to St Martin, Nellie and I then headed right, aiming for The Fold which is nestled on a slope above the hexagonal former tollhouse, now utilised as a renowned fish and chip shop. Along the way we passed the ‘green door’ which could quite easily have been the inspiration for Shakin Stevens song. A line in his lyrics asks ‘what’s that secret you’re keeping’. However, a nearby notice board reveals this as being William Lennon’s historic boot factory, the last remaining safety boot manufacturer in Britain. It is a fourth generation family company established in 1899 that still makes quality footwear.

We now walked out of the village, beginning our return to Eyam, walking uphill past an old chapel with stained glass windows and some lovely characterful properties. I ignored a footpath on the left that climbs very steeply up to one of the famous boundary stones, choosing instead to pass through a gate and follow an old narrow track back to Eyam known as Mill Lane.

We entered the village at the Lydgate where there is a sad little walled compound containing the plague graves of the Darby family. Evidently during the Middle Ages the lydgate was the main road into the village where male inhabitants would take turns to stand ‘watch and ward’ from 9pm to 6am.

It was lovely to wander through The Square and along Church Street passing plague cottage, the sheep roast, stocks and Hall before our return to the car park, every step reminding me about Eyam’s intriguing past. Eyam Well Dressings this year will be August 23rd – 31st.

Sally Mosley

FOOTNOTE BY NELLIE: I can be quite a clever little dog at times believe it or not. When trotting along on my own, I’ve taught myself to lie down if I see somebody coming, either walking, cycling or on horseback. This gives mum time to grab me before I have a go at herding them (one of my many natural instincts). The other day at the start of a long blind bend up in the woods I stopped in my tracks and fell to the floor. Just a few yards in front of me were three fallow stags with antlers. Oh dear! It just goes to show that you never know what can be lurking around the corner. xx