You could describe this walk as being a bit of a caving expedition, although not actually going underground. It certainly included a detour that was dramatic, challenging and one that I won’t be repeating in a hurry.
All started off leisurely and easy going as I parked roadside on Chelmorton’s long main street. This linear village is in upland Derbyshire, surrounded by fabulous medieval strip fields. Beyond these are more square or large rectangular shaped fields, taken in from open moorland around the 18th and 19th centuries, every one being enclosed by mile upon mile of painstakingly laid drystone walls.
Roughly half way down Chelmorton a footpath heads off to the west, initially along a drive and then through the side garden of a little cottage before crossing a couple of stiles and fields. It then meets up with a fabulous old walled pathway where we turned left, passing between fields before carefully crossing the A5270.
Views from this elevated path were far reaching and spectacular, taking in a pastoral and panoramic landscape. Being early February the colours looked a bit washed out and insipid but these will soon ‘green up’ with a bit of warm spring sunshine.
It was a bitterly cold day with the temperature hovering around zero. However, this meant the ground beneath my boots was firm and not slippery, any puddles were iced over and tractor tracks lay frozen into zig-zag ruts.
Meeting up with the Midshires Way is where our detour into Deep Dale began. At first we followed a footpath across fields and high wall stiles, but then Nellie and I came to a little gate on the edge of the world, beyond which was a very steep descent. Footpath No 37 which runs through the dale bottom has been closed for some years, but it is still possible to follow the Midshires Way across Deep Dale and on to King Sterndale. I just wanted to visit caves in the bottom of the valley that have historic significance.
There were two cave entrances, one near the bottom of the path and a larger one around the corner to the left. The larger cave is now known as Thirst House Cave, but was previously called Hob Hurst House after a goblin that was believed to live there. Two local men, Micah Salt and Robert Milletts excavated the 190-foot long cave in the 1880s and 1890’s. Their finds included Roman artefacts, bronze jewellery, enamelled brooches, pottery fragments, coins and an iron and bone knife. These are now said to be at Buxton Museum.
It was more dodgy going down which I did at a stoop to the point of being on my bum in parts. Coming back up again was a hands and knees experience. It’s easy to tell that I’m no mountain goat! Needless to say Nellie took it in her stride, occasionally woofing words of encouragement at me which any observer would interpret as her rounding me up!
After returning to the safety of level ground we retraced our steps across the fields but then continued ahead to pick up Caxter Way Lane past the drive to Burrs Farm and then ahead to the main road.
Our route back to Chelmorton was along a bumpy track past Shepley Farm from where I got a good view of the golden locust weathervane atop the spire of Saint John the Baptist parish church which dates back to the 11th century. At 1,200 feet above sea level, Chelmorton is the highest parish in the Derby Diocese and the highest church with a spire anywhere in England.
I also observed a blizzard of snowdrops in the garden of the Old Vicarage, their pure white bells ringing out a silent tune in the cold breeze.
Walking back to my car took us past some old stone troughs with information sign. Evidently these are fed by a spring that rises at the foot of Chelmorton Low then runs as a stream known as Illy-Willy-Water.
Another interesting feature of Chelmorton Low which has been admired by drivers on the A515 for many years is the word ‘ENGLAND’ emblazoned onto the hillside. It was created by a local man ahead of the 2010 World Cup, and is reputedly cleaned up whenever the England team face a very important match.
This might not have been a lengthy walk but it certainly packed a punch of interest and made my legs wobble!
Sally Mosley
FOOTNOTE BY NELLIE: Mum had me really confused the other day. It was very wet and miserable outside and she said it was raining cats and dogs. Well I sat for ages looking out of the window but I didn’t see a single one come down from the skies! Woof woof, Nellie xx
