MY WAY AROUND – WHALEY BRIDGE TO BUXTON

For the next few walks, Nellie and I will be following a loop closer to home because the persons responsible for creating the boundary of the Peak District National Park 75 years ago got a bit carried away with their compasses, drawing a line around Buxton. This will take us south and back into O.S. OL24.

We left Whaley Bridge through the suburb of Dowry, picking up the Goyt Way which is a particularly scenic walking trail through the Goyt Valley following part of the 225-mile Midshires Way. Initially it took us through a new housing development and green space before descending into a glorious woodland path flanked with bluebells, emerging beside the church at Taxal.

Evidently this is the parish church for Whaley Bridge, its graveyard being the final resting place for many who lived there as well as in surrounding hamlets.

St James, formerly known as St Leonard’s, has a 16th century tower with earlier fabric that is Saxon in origin, whilst the main body of the church was rebuilt in the 19th century. Within is said to be a tablet memorial to Michael Heathcote who died in 1768 that evidently reads ‘Gentleman of the Pantry and Yeoman of the Mouth to his late Majesty King George III’.

The tower contains teeny tiny glazed windows and some interesting early carved stone heads. Either side of the clock face are what appears to be Fred Dibnah with flat cap and his mate!

A steep path led us down beside the churchyard to a ford in the river and a wooden footbridge over the River Goyt. It was a very warm day so Nellie enjoyed a paddle to cool down her paws.

We then followed a lovely shaded path beneath mature trees taking us upstream, then grassy meadows beside Nature Reserves to Fernilee Reservoir. A Bill was passed by Parliament in 1930 allowing permission for the construction of this reservoir, completed in 1937. It holds 1087 million gallons of water and reaches a maximum depth of 121 feet. When built, Fernilee submerged the Chilworth Gun Powder Factory where in 1909 an explosion killed 3 men. At its height, shortly before the First World War, 120 men are said to have worked there, but it is reputed that a gun powder factory had existed on the site since the 16th century when it supplied the battle with the Spanish Armada.

Crossing the dam wall I looked far into the distance at deep dark blue waters beneath a cloudless sky like a giant pool of Parkers navy Quink ink.

A footpath to the right of Fernilee Reservoir took us to Errwood Reservoir where we walked at the base of the grassy dam wall before heading up to the road beside Bunsal Cob, a sugarloaf hill. After a little stretch up the 1 in 7 Bunsal Incline, constructed in 1831 as part of the former Cromford & High Peak Railway line, we headed along a footpath to the famous bird feeder tree. A former old track on the right long ago led down to cross a packhorse bridge over the river. However, when the valley was flooded, the bridge was demolished stone by stone and then rebuilt upstream.

We continued ahead and past a metal bridge then followed Wildmoorstone Brook upstream, walking along newly repaired barge boards to avoid bog. Sheep were grazing around us in an area renowned for its ground nesting birds.

Having crossed over the former railway line close to a blocked up tunnel, we then wandered over Watford Moor before descending steeply beside Beet Wood where a carpet of fabulous bluebells lay beneath the trees.

Ahead of us I could clearly see Buxton with some very select properties either side of tree-lined avenues and an impressively manicured golf course in the foreground. The finale to our walk was to follow Bishops Lane to Burbage. This long straight road is said to have been named after George John Trevor Spencer, the Bishop of Madras, who was the Perpetual Curate of Buxton 1824 to 1829. He lived at the big house known as Edgemoor. A bit more roadside walking along Green Lane and we arrived at Poole’s Cavern where I enjoyed tea and cake whilst Nellie supped water and chomped on a treat.

Sally Mosley

FOOTNOTE BY NELLIE: You might think my mum is fit and up for a challenge but it’s nothing compared to a woman we met on our travels. Being of a similar mature age as mum, Kiwi Helen had come all the way from New Zealand to cycle by herself along the 750-mile Great North Trail from Middleton Top to Cape Wrath in Scotland. Now that’s what I call a long distance adventure. Keep on pedalling Helen! Love Nellie x